Fur coat pattern. How to remake a fur collar on a winter coat - master class How to sew a stand-up collar from fox fur

Master class fur collar for a coat photo 1

This master class is dedicated to technology fur collar processing on the coat. After studying this master class, you will learn how to recut a collar from a turn-down collar to a stand-up collar with a one-piece stand-up, how process fur collar on a winter coat and how to sew a collar to a coat along the neck.

master class fur collar for coat photo 2

Photo 2 shows the fur collar before alteration. This is a large turn-down collar. What was it for? alteration of the collar. Firstly, it cannot be raised along the back of the neck. Secondly, it’s too voluminous. Thirdly, as can be seen in photo 2, it lags too far behind the neck and does not protect well from the wind. In photo 1 already redone collar and as you can see, it lies along the neck and it is possible to lift it along the back to protect against the cold in severe frosts.

Before you start alteration of the collar, tear it off from the neck of photo 3, and tear off the fur collar from the collar. Then we iron the collar and start cutting. What distinguishes the cut of a turn-down collar from a stand-up collar is, first of all, how much the middle seam of the collar is “separated”, since a turn-down collar practically “lies” on the back of the back. The stand-up collar on the back is raised along the neckline, as if forming a stand-up collar.

master class fur collar for coat photo 3

master class fur collar for coat photo 4

We reshape the collar as shown in photo 4. For a stand-up collar, all the sections along the collar's flight are cut in a straight line, while for a turn-down collar, the sections at the collar's flight have a concave shape. The difference is clearly visible in photo 4.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 5

If the adhesive on the collar is not glued well, then remove the old adhesive and stick on a new one. I applied new adhesive. We sew the middle seam of the collar and iron it out, photo 8. Then we baste the collar to the neck and try it on the client to clarify the dimensions of the collar - photo 5.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 6

Now we will trim the fur collar, refining the cuts along the collar and adding 1.5 cm to the cuts for the roll of the collar. You can trim with a stationery knife - photo 6.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 7

Let's connect the two halves of the fur collar with a hand furrier's seam as in photo 7. The technique of making a hand furrier's seam is discussed in the article: "How to sew fur - hand furrier's seam"

In the next step we need to connect the collar with the fur collar. Moreover, the collar will consist of two parts. Fur collar and collar stand cut from the main material. It is always better to make a fur collar with a sewing stand made of the main material, since the fur on the collar will not fray when the coat is worn. Let's connect the collar stand with the fur collar, first basting it, and then sew it on a machine. Seam width per foot. Then we baste the collar to the collar using an over-the-edge seam. In the corners, the fur collar sits slightly. See photos 9 and 10.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 9

master class fur collar for a coat photo 10

master class fur collar for a coat photo 11

Now we machine sew along the edge of the collar. We sew from the side of the collar to the width of the presser foot - photo 11. To ensure that the stitching seam of the collar does not turn out and lies flat, you need to make a fluff. That is, secure the stitching seam between the collar and collar. This can be done in different ways, but I do it as shown in photo 12. Take a thread and a needle and fasten the seam to the collar over the edge. Now the seam will lie flat. Turn the finished collar right side out, photo 13.

master class fur collar for coat photo 12

master class fur collar for a coat photo 13

The collar is ready. Now we begin to connect the collar and coat at the neck. This is quite a complex process. I tried to photograph this process as best as possible. But unfortunately not all moments processing collar can be reflected in the photo. So let's move on, if you're not tired.

We begin to baste the collar to the coat in 2 stages. First, we baste the collar, starting from the center of the back neckline to the left to the rasp, and then we baste from the rasp to the middle of the back neck, photo 14. The collar is basted to the main parts of the coat - to the back and front. At the second stage, we baste the lower section of the collar stand. We start from the middle of the neckline of the back to the rasp and from the rasp to the middle of the back. We baste it to the lining and to the lining. At the rasp, the collar and collar are connected together. See photo 15. The arrows indicate the junction of the collar and the collar; the cutout in the photo looks directly at us and is perpendicular to the stitching seams of the collar.

master class fur collar for a coat photo 14

master class fur collar for coat photo 15

We sew the collar into the neck, the stitching edges of the collar and collar should coincide in the place where photo 15 is opened. In photo 16 you can see that the collar and collar are sewn in almost in a circle. The collar stand is stitched to the lining, capturing the batting as well. Then the batting needs to be trimmed a little so that there is no thickness at the seam.

A fur coat is one of the most desirable things for a woman. It warms perfectly on cold days, while always looking rich and attractive. But a fur coat is always a luxury item that not everyone can afford. So, why not sew it yourself if you have ready-made fur coat patterns? Let's try!

What do you need to sew a fur coat?

First of all, you need to buy materials for work:

Natural fur, as the most expensive material. Products made from natural fur always look impressive, but require special skills, knowledge and professional equipment;
Artificial fur, as a more affordable alternative to natural material. Working with a solid piece of fur fabric will be easy even for sewing enthusiasts. In this case, you can always combine natural and artificial materials. For example, use natural raw materials to cut collars;
Base from an old fur coat is the most popular raw material for new items. But, you should always understand that any fur can have a certain period of operation. Therefore, all worn areas cannot be used when sewing a new item and will have to be removed during sewing.

Natural fur (animal skins) are purchased exclusively in specialized stores. If you want to save money, you can turn to fur factories. There are not many skins on the market, so they are often pre-ordered, otherwise the cost of raw materials will be inflated.

But artificial raw materials are quite accessible. In any fabric store you can find a variety of “natural” fur in a wide range of colors and types. The ready-made patterns presented below can be used for both natural and artificial raw materials.

Acts as a lining simple atlas, as the most classic option. But, you can use a quilted lining made of combined fabrics. This material is characterized by strength and acts as additional insulation. But satin looks more beautiful.

In addition to the material, you need to stock up on tools for work:

Sharp scissors;
Hairpins or clothespins (necessary for fixation). Their benefits will be appreciated by that category of seamstresses who preferred natural material;
Punching pliers for installing accessories;
Hammer with cloth winding (necessary for breaking or softening seams);
Special triangular needles;
Comb brush for combing fur;
Chalk (soap) to mark markings;
High-quality accessories: hooks, buttons, straps, ties and so on.

Need to know! Working with fur material is not so easy. The work is hampered by the pile and characteristics of the skin (hide). Therefore, some craftswomen use a scalpel or a simple blade instead of scissors. Good sharpness of the tools will allow you to make confident and fast movements when cutting the material.

How to make a fur coat pattern?

Determine the length of the fur coat - the distance from the upper shoulder point to the selected point;

Attention! When creating a pattern for a short fur coat, use a line 10 cm below the waist or the middle of the hips as the extreme point. When working with a straight fur coat, its length can reach the knee or even lower.

When creating a fur coat sleeve pattern, you need to measure the distance between the shoulder point and the selected sleeve length;

Important! When creating a pattern for a bat-style fur coat, it is necessary to take into account that the loose sleeve style implies a rounded bottom seam, which goes into the side line.

Forming a silhouette. For a fur coat of size 42-48 and any style, you need a fur fabric 147-150 cm long. When building a fur coat from size 50, you need a fabric of 2 lengths. For a bat style of any size, you also need 2 lengths of fabric;
If the fur coat pattern includes a hood, then the size of the fabric used increases by 80 cm. The presence of a stand-up collar increases the footage by 50 cm. And when patterning patch pockets, there is no need for additional footage. The pieces that remained when forming the sleeves or shelves are quite enough;
Allow at least 10 cm for allowances and seams;
When combining different types of fur (natural and artificial material), the calculation of the required amount of footage is determined separately. The main emphasis is on the height of the parts.

We sew a short fur coat from faux fur

For sewing you need 2 meters of fur material (according to your taste and color) and the same amount of fabric for the lining. Main stages of work:

We form a pattern and cut the fabric according to the design;

We cut out two shelves, a back and sleeves;
We connect the back and front shelves by forming a shoulder seam;
We fix the sleeves with pins and carefully sew them in;

We make side seams along the body and seams at the bottom of the sleeve;

Important! At this stage, leave the lower part unstitched, then turn the fur coat inside out and finish the job.

We sew the sleeves with an allowance of 2-2.5 cm;
The fur coat is ready.

Attention! If desired, you can install fittings at the stage of connecting the base material with the lining.

Pattern of a fur coat with a stand-up collar

The model is of medium length, slightly widened towards the bottom. Both natural and faux fur can be used for sewing. In total, you need about 2.5 meters of base and lining material, fittings, and decorative elements (if desired).

Attention! All parts of the top must have the same pile direction. Paired parts should mirror the pattern. When working with faux fur, we cut only the woven part; with natural fur, we cut the inner part. We don't touch the pile.

Main stages of work:

Cut out 2 shelves, back, collar, 2 sleeve parts;

Duplicate the details for selection. In this case, the length of the hem at the bottom increases by 6-10 cm;

According to the markings, cut the shelves into 2 parts. The upper part is cut separately;

Important! Pay attention to the allowances: shoulder, side, vertical seams of the sleeve, at the stand - 1 cm, at the bottom of the sleeve and fur coat - 4 cm.

The layout of the patterns when working with faux fur is slightly different.

We connect the upper shoulder seam: the shelves and the back of the back;
We sew in the sleeves and sew the remaining parts;
We form the lining according to the pattern;

We connect the parts, install the fittings, turn the fur coat inside out and sew the bottom.

Pattern of a fur coat with a hood made of natural fur

A fur coat with a hood will keep you warm on a cold day. Although, sewing such a model can be considered a more complex job.

Basic sewing steps:

We start by preparing the skins. Using a knife, cut the skin along the belly. It is important not to damage the pile. We eliminate defects in pile or core. We wet the flesh and leave it for an hour. Then we straighten the skins, lay them pile side down and leave for an hour. Ultimately, we form a canvas from the skins using pins and sew them together (zig-zag stitch). The fur should face one direction;
We cut the prepared fur fabric according to the pattern;

We form a shelf with a one-piece side and a hood, a back, the front part of the hood and two halves of a sleeve;
We prepare patterns for the inner parts of the hood;

Add about 4.5 cm along the bottom of the product and sleeves. On the side, shoulder seams, darts and along the hood line - 1 cm. Add 2.5 cm to the cut edge of the inside of the hood;
Cut out the lining;

We sew everything along the lines, starting from the top and forming the hood. Then we move on to the side seams and sleeves. We sew in the lining and sew the bottom part of the fur coat.

A fur coat made of natural or artificial material, made with your own hands using ready-made patterns, will cost several times less than the factory version. And it will fit perfectly according to your figure, as it is sewn according to your own parameters.

Video: how to make a pattern for a fur coat

The pattern of a faux fur coat is quite simple and is modeled after, which you need to build according to your own standards. For those who have already sewed a coat and created a base pattern, we recommend using it.

Fur coat sleeve – single-seam, straight –

Rice. 1. Pattern of a fur coat - modeling the back and front

Rice. 2. Pattern of a fur coat - shelf

Rice. 3. Pattern of a fur coat - stand-up collar

Fur coat pattern - modeling

Modeling the back of a fur coat

We begin modeling the fur coat pattern from the back. Remove the waist dart, make a flare on the side from the hip line by 4-5 cm to the bottom of the product. The length of the fur coat from the waist is about 70cm.

Modeling the front of a fur coat

Move the chest dart to the side, shorten it by 2 cm (see Fig. 1. Pattern of a fur coat - modeling the back and front).

Remove the waist dart, flare the shelf on the side by 4-5 cm. Add 3 cm to go under the fastener. Outline the one-piece selection and mirror it along the line of the middle of the front (see Fig. 2. Pattern of a fur coat - front).

Stand collar pattern

Using a measuring tape, measure the distance AA1 on the shelf and BB1 on the back. Draw a rectangle with length AA1+BB1 and height 9cm. Set aside 1 cm from the upper left corner and from the lower right corner. down and up (see Fig. 3. Pattern of a fur coat collar). From the bottom point 1, move 0.5 cm to the right. Connect all the resulting points using a slightly curved line at the top and bottom.

The sleeve of the fur coat is cut out without changes.

How to cut a fur coat

From faux fur, cut out:

Shelf, one-piece with edging – 2 parts
Back – 1 piece with fold
Sleeve – 2 parts
Stand-up collar – 2 folded parts

From the lining fabric, cut out:

Shelf minus trim – 2 parts
Back – 1 piece with fold
Sleeve – 2 parts

Seam allowances are 2 cm, at the bottom of the fur coat and sleeves – 5 cm.

How to sew a fur coat

IMPORTANT! Faux fur can stretch slightly when stitching pieces together, so you need to baste the pieces before sewing!

Sew horizontal darts on the shelf. Lay them down.

Sew side, shoulder and sleeve seams, spread seams in different directions and manually baste to the product. This must be done when the fur is high enough to avoid excess thickness at the seams.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes.

Place the collar pieces on top of each other and stitch along the two short sides and the top long side, cut off the allowances in the corners, and turn the collar inside out.

The parts of the fur coat made from the lining fabric are basted and stitched together. Baste the lining to the sides of the hem and stitch.

Sew the collar into the neckline, turn the one-piece collar and lining to the wrong side, stitch along the collar sewing line, sew with one line, inserting the collar.

Turn the fur coat right side out and place the lining in the sleeves. Fold up the bottom of the sleeves and shorten the sleeve lining to the desired length. From the bottom of the fur coat (pass your hand between the fur coat and the lining), pull out the sleeve by the allowances, sweep the allowances and stitch them together.

Turn up the seam allowance at the bottom of the fur coat and baste it by hand. Fold the seam allowance on the lining and hand baste it to the seam allowance on the bottom of the fur coat.

Sew a hinged loop and a button according to the markings (point A). Sew fur coat hooks on the shelves of the fur coat (going under the fastener).

You can sew a belt from a strip of leather, wrap it around your waist and tie it. You can also use a ready-made belt you like. Your fur coat is ready! Happy Holidays!

One of the most popular accessories for the winter season is a removable fur collar. Moreover, you can sew it from faux fur of a variety of colors and textures, and wear it not only with outerwear!

A lined faux fur collar is ideal for everyday ensembles - sewing it yourself with our master class will not be difficult.

It is better to decorate an evening or cocktail dress with a collar made of natural fur, albeit small.

To prefer long- or short-pile fur, plain or “predatory” lining depends on your style and image.

YOU WILL NEED:

✽ Faux fur (40x20 cm),
✽ Lining fabric (40x20 cm),
✽ Ribbon 60 cm long,
✽ Paper pattern,
✽ Ruler,
✽ Pencil,
✽ Marker,
✽ Scissors,
✽ Cutter,
✽ Tailor's pins,
✽ Needle and thread for sewing

WHEN SEWING A REMOVABLE COLLAR, PAY PROPER ATTENTION TO THE LINING OF THE COLLAR.

STEP 1

At a distance of 9 cm below the top line of the collar, draw a parallel line. Set aside 2.5 cm from the mid-front line along the bottom edge and connect this point to the end of the dotted line.

Transfer the contours of the pattern to the wrong side of the fur and cut it out. In this case, cut only the woven base without touching the pile!

Cut out the lining and stitch it to the fur. Before this, pin ribbon ties to the upper corners. Attention: fold the fibers at the seam allowances inwards.

The world of leather and fur is a fascinating world of handicrafts that gives a lot of positive creative emotions. But working with natural fur differs from other types of sewing work. Knowledge of the technology of sewing fur products is required, including the cutting of natural skins, and the rules for selecting fur. You need to master the techniques of making connecting seams of skins, have the skills to work on a furrier’s machine, etc. In addition, no video tutorials or courses on working with fur can provide the most important thing - experience that appears only after years of working with fur.

How to sew fur at home? What is a furrier's machine and is it possible to do without it? How to cut and what knife can you use to cut natural fur skins? These and other issues are briefly outlined in this article.

Video of a furrier's hand stitch for sewing fur skins. The video is in English, but it is understandable. As a last resort, you can switch the subtitles to the language you need.

How to sew fur pelts by hand stitching

Fur parts, unlike leather, are joined either by hand or on a special furrier's machine. Sewing fur on a conventional sewing machine makes the seam stretched and of poor quality, and besides, the leather fabric of the fur may tear from this method of joining.
There are several techniques for joining fur skins by hand; I suggest you study one of the options for a manual furrier’s seam with a “double puncture”.

First, the edges of the two skins to be sewn are folded with the hair inward so that the hair is not visible during sewing. The needle should pierce both skins towards itself, that is, from the back side, but you can start from the left edge or the right, whichever is more convenient for you. The main thing is to figure out how to make such a stitch.

Do you like indoor or garden flowers? At the Green Gate nursery you can buy rooted cuttings and divisions of various domestic and perennial garden flowers. We have a constantly updated collection of anthuriums and hibiscus. Flowers and plants are sent by mail.

The furrier's hand stitch is made with simple stitches across the edge from right to left with a small step between stitches. Stitch forward, stitch in place, in the same holes from the needle, and again stitch forward, stitch in place, etc.
Experienced furriers always repeat the stitch, that is, the needle always goes through the same hole twice. Stitch density (0.3-0.5cm) and stitch height (0.3-0.8cm) depend on the thickness of the leather fabric. The thicker the fur pelt, the higher the stitch, and vice versa.

After joining the fur skins with a furrier's seam, both parts are unfolded, the seam is straightened by tapping along it with a small hammer from the side of the leather fabric. The seam is smooth, flat and strong, and the edges of the connected parts are positioned end-to-end.

A slight difference in the hair length of the two skins being sewn together can be evened out by moving up the edge of the skin with the longer hair. In this case, the stitch should be tightly tightened. By the way, when performing a hand furrier's stitch, you should not tighten the thread too much; it is enough to simply “pick up” the slack in the thread. It is much more important to maintain the same thread tension in each stitch.

Video on how to repair a bald spot on a fur coat, this method is called the “fish cut.” A very simple way to save on fur coat repairs. All you need is a needle and thread.

Some seams need to be taped

Some areas of fur clothing need to be duplicated, for example, hem, collar, hem and others. Duplicating with cushioning material will protect them from stretching and give them the required shape.
It is imperative to strengthen connecting seams such as armhole seams, neck seams, and shoulder seams. These areas are subject to stretching and the tape sewn into the seam strengthens and strengthens it.
In sewing supply stores you can buy regular cotton tape 1.5-2cm wide and use it for these purposes. There are also special adhesive tapes, which furriers call “amplifiers”. They are also used when sewing products made from genuine leather.
The tape is placed on one side.

Connecting furrier seams need to be stretched

Pieces of skins connected into one whole must be stretched on a wooden surface. To do this you will need small nails and a hammer.
A fur skin collected from different pieces is lightly moistened with a damp sponge from the side of the leather fabric and then nailed along the edges with nails to the board, at the same time slightly stretching it.
This is a very complex process, experience is required, so I will not dwell on it in detail. I will only say that with the help of such an operation, the fur skins are leveled, the seams are straightened, and sometimes it is even possible to increase the size of the skin.

Working with fur requires a special tool. In addition to the shoemaker's knife, with which (not scissors) the fur skin is cut, many other tools are also used. For example, a hammer for smoothing and softening seams, adhesive interlining tapes, special needles for hand sewing, threads, etc.

Why can’t you cut natural fur skins with scissors? Because scissors cut the hair, and the seam after joining will be very noticeable.

Video on how to cut fur pelts with a knife.

A small hammer and small nails are a must-have in a furrier's kit. You need to use a hammer to soften the connecting seams by tapping them, and you will also need it when stretching the moistened skin on a wooden surface.

Reinforcing tapes, 0.8-1.5 cm wide, are installed (glued) onto the cut edge of the skin in those places where the fur will experience tension, for example in the armhole, neck of a fur coat or vest, etc.

Be sure to get non-adhesive cushioning materials. They will be needed to strengthen the side of a fur coat or fur vest, collars, cuffs, etc.

Buy a good metal comb for combing your hair. With its help, it is good to “comb” the junction of the skins.

You will also need an awl, strong threads, special needles, leather glue, a thimble, and, of course, a sharp shoe knife. By the way, you can use a regular stationery knife with a retractable blade instead. It is inexpensive and a dull blade can be easily “sharpened.” To do this, you just need to break off the lower section of the blade with pliers (at a special mark).

Working with fur has one important advantage - you can always add a missing piece to any part or replace a section of fur skin with another, since the connecting seam will be hidden in thick hair.

The fur pelts of any fur-bearing animal are never exactly the same. They differ in size, hair height, shade, and sometimes some skins have “bald spots” and other defects. In general, selecting fur is the most important skill for which a good furrier is valued.

The correct selection of fur will make the fur coat “monolithic”, as if sewn from one large skin, without focusing on the joining of skins of different quality and shade. A good master furrier, like a sculptor, feels the fur and sculpts a real work of art from different pieces, which is why sewing fur products is the most expensive service of the atelier.
It is difficult to give any specific recommendations on the selection of skins, but when sewing, for example, a fur vest, place the best pieces of skin (back) on the center of the front and back. It is advisable to install the side parts of the skins in other places, for example, in the side seams.
When connecting different pieces of fur skins, pay attention to the height of the fur and its shade. Attach them to each other and compare, if they fit, connect them together.

How to sew fur skins on a furrier machine

Fur skins are sewn together either by hand or using a furrier's machine. To make a furrier's seam on a machine, the skin at the seam is folded with the hairs facing each other, carefully tucked the hair inward with the index finger or an awl, and the edges of the skin are sewn together. The stitch height and width are adjustable.

The thickness of the needle and thread should correspond to the thickness of the leather fabric. Choose the color of the threads not to match the color of the fur, but to the color of the leather fabric, then they will be less noticeable on the front side of the skin.
When working on a furrier's machine, you should carefully tuck the hair between the skins, since the furrier's machine will “put” hair into the seam, which will be very difficult to pull out. In addition, this can lead to malfunction of the furrier’s machine, skipping stitches, breaking the needle, etc.

For arctic fox and fox skins, use thread No. 80, for thin rabbit skins - No. 50, 60, for other skins - No. 40, 50.
After joining, the furrier's seams are smoothed with the butt of a shoemaker's knife or with light blows of a hammer with a rubber sole.

You can cut fur only with a special shoe knife on the back side of the fur laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. It is inconvenient to cut with a knife on a wooden surface; the tip of the knife will constantly cut into the boards. If you cut off a fur skin with scissors, some of the fur will fall off on both sides, and when joined, the seam will be very noticeable.

I advise beginning furriers to first work with old fur that has not yet lost its aesthetic qualities. In addition, such fur can be slightly updated if you combine it with genuine leather and install new accessories.

In this video you will see how a furrier machine works. We sew together two small pieces of fur especially for you.

Otter fur is considered the most wear-resistant.

Fur skins have a standard of wearability. Otter fur is considered the most durable and resistant to waterlogging. It is the otter that has the honor of being the standard for all fur-bearing animals, and the fur of fur-bearing animals is compared against it. Even sable fur is inferior to it in strength and wear resistance.

So, if otter fur is 100%, then sable - 80%, mink - 70, arctic fox - 65, astrakhan fur - 60, fox - 50, muskrat - 45, squirrel - 30, ermine and weasel - 25, rabbit - 12, mole and gopher - 10, hare - 5.

Don't put mothballs in your fur coat. Some furs, including humans, are allergic to mothballs.
Protect natural fur from rubbing; such areas make the fur coat very old.
Faded and elongated areas of fur on a fur coat may appear when driving a car. Try not to ride in a car wearing a long fur coat, it is uncomfortable and will quickly ruin its appearance.
Natural furs must be protected from direct exposure to various chemicals and perfumes. This can cause the hair to lose its shine and the skin tissue to lose its elasticity.
Try to avoid getting fur clothing too wet. If you do get caught in wet snow, dry your fur coat or fur vest at room temperature in a ventilated area, but not near a heater.

In this video you will see how easy it is to sew leather on a Podolsk type sewing machine by installing a Teflon foot on it.